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Signs of the nurse’s clothing at graduationa a Article extracted from the Master’s Thesis in Nursing entitled: The uniform worn by students at Hermantina Beraldo Nursing School (EEHB) and this influence on the construction of the graduated nurse's identity in the city of Juiz de Fora (1947-1978). Author: Regina Lucia Muniz de Almeida. Advisor: Ph.D. Maria Angélica de Almeida Peres. Stricto Sensu Post-Graduate Program at the Escola de Enfermagem Anna Nery. Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro. 2014

Abstract

Objective

to analyze the uniforms used in the graduation ceremony of nurses and their meanings for professional identity.

Method

A nursing school in Minas Gerais was studied from the period of 1947 to 1964. Qualitative, social-historical research, through which written, photographic and oral documents were analyzed, considering the conceptual bases of professional identity, by the sociologist Claude Dubar, and of clothing and its symbolic meanings, by Roland Barthes.

Results

The nurses' uniform used at graduation had institutional and professional identity signs. It consisted of the classic white dress, with a cap and other accessories.

Conclusions and implications for practice

The nurse's graduation uniform corresponded to the advances in fashion and scientificity, becoming a mark in the construction of the role and a consolidation of professional identity, contributing to the identification of a professional category in training.

Keywords:
Nurse; Nursing Schools; History of Nursing; Professional Role; Clothing; Social Identity

Resumo

Objetivo

Analisar os uniformes usados na cerimônia de formatura de enfermeiras e seus significados para a identidade profissional.

Método

Estudou-se uma escola de enfermagem de Minas Gerais, no período de 1947 até 1964. Pesquisa qualitativa, histórico-social, mediante a qual foram analisados documentos escritos, fotográficos e orais, considerando as bases conceituais de identidade profissional, do sociólogo Claude Dubar, e de vestuário e seus significados simbólicos, de Roland Barthes.

Resultados

O uniforme das enfermeiras, usado na formatura, possuía signos de identidade institucional e profissional. Foi constituído pelo clássico vestido branco, com touca e outros acessórios.

Conclusões e implicações para a prática

O uniforme de formatura de enfermeiras correspondeu aos avanços da moda e da cientificidade, configurando-se uma marca na construção do papel e consolidação da identidade profissional, contribuindo para a identificação de uma categoria profissional em formação.

Descritores:
Enfermeira; Escolas de Enfermagem; História da Enfermagem; Papel Profissional; Vestuário; Identidade Social

Resumen

Objetivo

Analizar los uniformes utilizados en la ceremonia de graduación de enfermeras y sus significados para la identidad profesional.

Método

Se estudió una escuela de enfermería de Minas Gerais, relativo al periodo de 1947 a 1964. Investigación cualitativa, histórico-social, en la que se analizaron documentos escritos, fotográficos y orales, considerando las bases conceptuales de la identidad profesional, del sociólogo Claude Dubar, y de vestuario y sus significados simbólicos, de Roland Barthes.

Resultados

El uniforme de las enfermeras, utilizado en la graduación, presentaba señales de identidad institucional y profesional. Consistía en el clásico vestido blanco, con gorra y otros complementos.

Conclusiones e implicaciones para la práctica

El uniforme de graduación de enfermeras correspondió a los avances de moda y cientificidad, convirtiéndose en una marca en la construcción y consolidación de la identidad profesional, contribuyendo para la identificación de una categoría profesional en formación.

Palabras clave:
Enfermera; Escuelas de Enfermería; Historia de la Enfermería; Rol Profesional; Vestuario; Identidad Social

INTRODUCTION

The history of worldwide nursing recognizes Florence Nightingale as the precursor of a movement towards professionalization of nursing, considering that, in 1860, in Victorian England, she inaugurated the phase of modern nursing. Its school model aimed at the acquisition of skills and behaviors, personal and professional attributes considered a way of improving social status and recognition through competence in patient care. Among these valuing attributes, clothing and behavior characteristic of morally reputable women were included, which would demonstrate these values to society.11 Figueiredo M, Peres M. The identity of the female nurse: a reflection from the perspective of Dubar. Referência. 2019 out;4(20):149-54. http://dx.doi.org/10.12707/RIV18079.
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The model of nursing school for women, designed by Nightingale, achieved prestige in various parts of the world, including the United States, where it gained its own characteristics related to production and health care, delineated by Capitalism and Taylorism.22 Silva TWME, Velloso ISC, Araújo MT, Galdino CS, Pires Jr JF, Nobre T. Circulação do poder-saber na constituição das práticas profissionais de médicos e enfermeiros. Rev Baiana Enferm. 2018;32:e28234. http://dx.doi.org/10.18471/rbe.v32.28234.
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The Anglo-American model was established in Brazil in 1923, with the inauguration of the School of Nurses of the National Department of Public Health, which brought this concept of teaching, as well as the concern with academic-professional clothing.11 Figueiredo M, Peres M. The identity of the female nurse: a reflection from the perspective of Dubar. Referência. 2019 out;4(20):149-54. http://dx.doi.org/10.12707/RIV18079.
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Modern nursing spread throughout Brazil, gaining strength in the early 1930s, after National Decree No. 20,109, of 1931, determined the teaching model of the School of Nurses Ana Nery (new name of the NDPH school) standard for other nursing schools in the country, which became known as the “ananéri standard”. The first school to be created after this decree was the Carlos Chagas Nursing School, on July 7, 1933, by Decree No. 10,952, institution that gave rise to the current Nursing School of the Universidade Federal de Minas Gerais, in the city of Belo Horizonte, at the time the center of political and economic development in the state of Minas Gerais.33 Santos FBO, Carregal FAS, Rodrigues RD, Marques RC. Brazilian nursing history (1950-2004): what has been discussed in the literature?. Rev Enferm Cent-oeste Min. 2018;8:e1876.

The Brazilian political context in which the Ana Néry standard was instituted and nursing schools were created in this format was the so-called Vargas Era (1930-1945), when there was growing investment in economic development and basic industry, with the expansion of the railway network, aiming at facilitating the transport of goods for industry and commerce.44 Fausto B. História concisa do Brasil. São Paulo: Edusp; 2015. The health field received special attention from the federal government, interested in reducing infectious and contagious diseases, which is why it was investing, with the help of the Rockefeller Foundation, in the training of doctors and nurses.55 Campos PFS, Carrijo AR. Ilustre inominada: Lydia das Dôres Matta e enfermagem brasileira pós-1930. Hist Cienc Saude. 2019 jan/mar;26(1):165-85.

After the deposition of President Getúlio Vargas, through a coup in 1945, presidential elections were called, with General Eurico Gaspar Dutra being the winner, whose government (1946-1951) approved the Constitution of 1946, which brought together liberal and conservative principles. The SALTE Plan (HFTE Plan, in free translation) was also implemented, prioritizing investment in health, food, transport and energy, while labor movements were repressed by the government.44 Fausto B. História concisa do Brasil. São Paulo: Edusp; 2015.

In this context, the Hermantina Beraldo School of Nursing (EEHB) was created in 1946, during the reform of the State Health Department of Minas Gerais, and inaugurated on March 8, 1947, in Juiz de Fora. The school’s name was a posthumous tribute to the wife of João Beraldo, intervener in the state of Minas Gerais at the time of its creation. As the first nursing school in the city to graduate nurses in the Ana Nery standard, its importance is due to the role it played in the dissemination of a professional identity in Brazil – especially in the interior of Minas Gerais –, incorporating emblems and rituals of the standard school, also acquired by the Carlos Chagas School of Nursing.33 Santos FBO, Carregal FAS, Rodrigues RD, Marques RC. Brazilian nursing history (1950-2004): what has been discussed in the literature?. Rev Enferm Cent-oeste Min. 2018;8:e1876.,66 Almeida RLMD, Rodrigues AAP, Tarma GF, Figueiredo MAGD, Almeida Fo AJ, Santos TCF et al. Clothing and professional identity in the training of nurses in the city of Juiz de Fora. Rev Bras Enferm. 2018;71(suppl 4):1548-55. http://dx.doi.org/10.1590/0034-7167-2017-0522. PMid:30088623.
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After operating for 21 years under the administration of the State of Minas Gerais, in 1968, it was transferred to the administration of the newly created Hermantina Beraldo Foundation (FHB), whose objective was to keep the school functioning, marked by financial crises. The military coup of 1964 reconfigured society, and educational institutions were targeted by the Government, which approved, in 1968, a university reform, responsible for modifying the structure of higher education courses in Brazil, impacting nursing education, inserted in universities in several states of the country.

In 1976, still in the context of military dictatorship, EEHB was transformed into Faculdade Hermantina Beraldo (FHB) and kept out of the university scenario, under the management of FHB, which was unable to overcome financial difficulties, which is why the school was closed in 1978. Such fact did not mean the end of the school as a social body, as an agreement between the State of Minas Gerais, the Universidade Federal de Juiz de Fora (UFJF) and the FHB was approved, creating the Undergraduate Nursing Course at UFJF. This agreement is an important historical milestone for nursing, since the social body of the school was incorporated and the institutional identity of the EEHB maintained by the UFJF, which preserved the use of uniforms, rituals and ceremonies.66 Almeida RLMD, Rodrigues AAP, Tarma GF, Figueiredo MAGD, Almeida Fo AJ, Santos TCF et al. Clothing and professional identity in the training of nurses in the city of Juiz de Fora. Rev Bras Enferm. 2018;71(suppl 4):1548-55. http://dx.doi.org/10.1590/0034-7167-2017-0522. PMid:30088623.
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With regard to training, the nursing students from Juiz de Fora perceived the uniform as a symbol of the profession, an identifying and differentiating instrument for the standard nurse, which, in this case, represented a female professional category that gained spaces towards acceptability and recognition by society. Therefore, the uniform, as a symbol, contributed to the search for an ideal to be achieved, a professional identity, and the graduation rite sealed the years of studies carried out by the students, the work of teachers and educational institution, as an investment of the society of which one was part.66 Almeida RLMD, Rodrigues AAP, Tarma GF, Figueiredo MAGD, Almeida Fo AJ, Santos TCF et al. Clothing and professional identity in the training of nurses in the city of Juiz de Fora. Rev Bras Enferm. 2018;71(suppl 4):1548-55. http://dx.doi.org/10.1590/0034-7167-2017-0522. PMid:30088623.
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The graduation ceremony at EEHB, in the first years of the Undergraduate Nursing Course at UFJF, kept its rites: nominal call of the graduates, national anthem, and oath, among others. For graduation, the student wore the uniform of a registered nurse, in order to present herself during the ceremony in the attire of the professional class to which she would belong. When considering how to dress, in the history of mankind, uniforms or regimentals were intended to mark the own and particular identity of various groups, categories, tribes, associations, teams, social classes, students of a particular school, seeking to convey a symbolic image and a professional identity.77 Lurie A. A linguagem das roupas. Rio de Janeiro: Rocco; 1997.

Based on these considerations, the importance of this and other historical studies that reveal the construction and development of a professional category is highlighted, given the opportunities for reflection that the past presents for the present and the future. It is understood that this construction begins even before training, in view of the social representations already placed, and does not end with graduation. The rites, symbols and traditions drive the appropriation of personal and work behavior – which can be incorporated or refuted –, influencing the professional’s identity.

The purpose of this article is to analyze the uniforms used in the graduation ceremony of nurses and their meanings for professional identity and role.

METHOD

The time frame is the period from 1950, the year the first class of the EEHB graduated, until 1964, when the use of uniform in graduation ceremonies was replaced by the gown. It is worth noting that, in 1976, the institution had been renamed Faculdade Hermantina Beraldo.

Written documents and photographs of graduates were analyzed, as well as interviews produced considering the Thematic Oral History with eight former students who, after graduation, worked as teachers at EEHB. These records, prepared in the master’s thesis entitled “The uniform worn by students at Hermantina Beraldo Nursing School (EEHB) and this influence on the construction of the graduated nurse's identity in the city of Juiz de Fora (1947-1978)”88 Almeida RLMD. Formação de Enfermeiras na Cidade de Juiz de Fora: uniforme e identidade na Escola de Enfermagem Hermantina Beraldo (1947-1978).[dissertação]. Rio de Janeiro: Escola de Enfermagem Anna Nery/Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro; 2014., were incorporated into the oral collection of the Documentation Center of the School of Nursing Anna Nery, from the Universidade Federal of Rio de Janeiro.

The documents consulted for this analysis were: register books and graduation minutes of the first EEHB class, belonging to UFJF; documents on EEHB located in the Personnel Department of the Juiz de Fora Regional Management; legislation and journalistic reports referring to the EEHB, published in Juiz de Fora, in the Jornal Diário Mercantil; and reports from the Santa Casa de Misericórdia of Juiz de Fora. The photographic record of the uniforms used at the EEHB graduation was found in newspapers of the time or provided by former students, collaborators in this study.99 Meihy JCSB, Holanda F. História oral: como fazer como pensar. 4th ed. São Paulo: Contexto; 2010.

The option to complement the written data with oral data was due to the fact that clothing has different languages, and one of them corresponds to real clothing – the one that only those who saw, touched, wore the clothing, knows. Oral history allows working with memory as a historical source, adding data to other documents, as, by expanding the possibility of research, it makes it possible to know details experienced by people at a given time.99 Meihy JCSB, Holanda F. História oral: como fazer como pensar. 4th ed. São Paulo: Contexto; 2010.-1010 Araújo FE. Casas de farinha e farinhadas: cultura material, história oral e memória. Cadernos CEOM. 2015 jun;28(42):45-52.. Eight former EEHB students were included as collaborators, interviewed by the Thematic Oral History technique, who recorded, transcribed and validated their own speeches.

The data underwent triangulation and thematic categorization guided by the study objective. The analytical framework adopted was based on the concept of identity by sociologist Claude Dubar1111 Portelli A. Un travail de relation: quelques observations sul histoire orale. Clio Revue domande et tessinoise sur les didactiques de histore. Trilhas da História [Internet]. 2017 [citado 2020 mar 28];7(13):182-95. Disponível em: https://periodicos.ufms.br/index.php/RevTH/article/view/5306/4019
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, and on clothing and its symbolic meanings, by Roland Barthes1212 Dubar CA. Socialização: construção das identidades sociais e profissionais. São Paulo: Martins Fontes; 2005., which allowed for a reflective and critical discussion about the social meaning attributed to the graduation uniform, one of the contributing elements for the construction of the identity of the professional groups – in this case, the nurses.

Ethical issues were respected and the project approved by the Research Ethics Committee under Opinion No. 168,815, of 2012. The collaborators were identified in the text by the letter C followed by the number corresponding to the order in which the interview was carried out.

RESULTS

The nursing schools created in the Ana Nery standard followed the main ritualistic norms of the reference school, which included, in addition to formal clothing, the oath, the national anthem and the reception of a diploma, elements that were part of the rite of passage from the student life to professional life.

At the graduation ceremony of the first class, the EEHB instituted a white linen dress, with long sleeves, without cuffs, as a gala uniform (Figure 1). The dress’s skirt model was evase, with a well-defined waist, and a belt made of the same fabric. The length should be below the knee, and the blouse (top of the dress) was buttoned on the side with four white buttons. The dress uniform was complemented by a starched white organdy cap, a cloak or a white cape of fine wool, with length to extend below the knees, covering the entire dress and fastened at the neck by a collar with a button, covered by the brooch bearing the school's insignia. The shoes were closed, in white, and the socks were flesh-colored, as described by the former students:

Figure 1
Photograph of students on graduation day at EEHB - Year 1963.

The dress uniform was a white linen uniform, buttoned at the side. The cape was wool, a finer wool. The cap was made of organdy, it was very pretty. It was starched (C1).

It was a dress. It looked more like a Japanese outfit. Buttoned on the side, even on the shoulder, and it had a cape we called a cloak, covered up to the knee (C3).

It had a cloak. It was like a priest's collar and the rest was a woolen godet. This cloak we used in festivities (C4).

The cape (Figure 1), as described by the former students, was made of a fabric heavier and fuller than the dress. To fasten the cover, a brooch containing the insignia of the EEHB was used:

The accessory she had was a badge with a written triangle: art, science and ideal (C6).

We had to buy a brooch written School of Nursing Juiz de Fora (C5).

This was the uniform worn at graduations until 1964, when the gown was established at the institution.

The brooch (Figure 2) was made up of several symbolic elements. Externally, it had a circle of golden leaves that, according to the collaborators, was plated in gold; over the circle of leaves was a yellow cross with white borders; over the cross – which was shaped like the Cross of Malta – two circles were juxtaposed: one white, engraved with the name “School of Nursing Juiz de Fora”, and the other, central, in navy blue, showing a triangle, with each side displaying one of the words of the motto “Art, Science, Ideal” (words by Florence Nightingale about the nursing profession), as well as the creation date of the school, 1947; the center of the triangle bore the Greek lamp, symbol of Modern Nursing, drawn in golden.

Figure 2
Photograph of the brooch used on the cape’s collar.

Figure 3 registers the graduates of the first and second classes of the EEHB, on the day of graduation, with some teachers, including the school principal. Students and teachers in full dress uniforms can be observed. What is different is the model of some teachers’ caps, who use the one from their training school (a piece similar to the veil), which is different from the cap of EEHB graduates. The two groups graduated on the same day, although they started the course at different times (the first in March and the second in June). The illustration also shows the students’ body posture, indicative of the solemn moment they were taking part in.

Figure 3
Photograph of the first and second classes of the EEHB – Pioneers’ Graduation Ceremony, held in 1950.

Figure 4 shows, in greater detail, the gala uniform used at the graduation of the students in 1959, in which the use of gloves and the brooch that held the cover can be seen. The use of clothing (gala uniform) in the graduation ceremony can be understood as an important sign in consolidating the identity of the nurse trained by the EEHB, and it became the standard for all subsequent graduations, without changes until the year 1964, the last one before the adoption of the gown. The cape, overlapping the dress, the white shoes and the cap on top of the head stand out.

Figure 4
EEHB graduates, class of 1959.

At the first graduation of the EEHB, in 1950, the symbols – among which the lamp, the brooch and the uniform can be highlighted – were already part of this ceremony and contributed to the construction of the nurse’s identity. Other important elements also made up the solemnity, such as speeches and oaths.

In Figure 5, the moment of oath of the EEHB students is registered, in which the solemn posture stands out, with the right arm extended towards the flags and the lamp in the left hand. It is only possible to identify the Brazilian flag; the second flag, according to the rituals of other schools, is probably that of the city of Juiz de Fora or of the school.

Figure 5
Photograph of the Oath at the EEHB Graduation Ceremony – Year of 1950.

The graduation ceremony of the pioneer class of the EEHB – constituted by the two starting classes in 1947 – was attended by important figures, civil and military. The event gained prominence in the press in the city of Juiz de Fora, signifying the recognition of the professional nurse at that time when health stood out in development projects in the region of Minas Gerais.

The news in the newspaper “O Diário Mercantil” reflected the notoriety of this graduation event. As it is a prestigious communication vehicle in Juiz de Fora, it released, on August 15, 1950: “As Primeiras Diplomadas de Juiz de Fora” (“The First Graduates of Juiz de Fora”, in free translation).

The journalistic media coverage of the nurses’ graduation added value to the solemn act and publicized the professional’s image, which from that moment would be inserted in the health services of Juiz de Fora, bringing professional qualification to the community, and encouraging other women to choose the profession of nurse, enrolling in the existing school in their city.

DISCUSSION

The similarity with the teachers’ uniform has an emblematic and fundamental value, as it should symbolize the archetype of the standard nurse to be reproduced and incorporated into society, in the expectation of acceptability, identification and legitimacy of the profession.1313 Barthes R. Sistema de moda. São Paulo: Martins Fontes; 2009.,1414 Silva GTR, Almeida DB, Oliveira NL, Laitano ADC, Santos VPFA, Queirós PJP. Estudos sobre a imagem das enfermeiras: cinco décadas entre a imagética e suas repercussões. Esc Anna Nery. 2020;24(4):e20200063. http://dx.doi.org/10.1590/2177-9465-ean-2020-0063.
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The uniform used at graduation was of the registered nurse in her gala version (gala uniform).

The uniform in nursing was essential to bring together, through the image, women from different social classes, who were trained as nurses in higher education courses, enabling the reconfiguration of the profession in society. Women's conquest of new spaces is directly related to work and financial independence, which nursing education in the 20th century helped to acquire. Thus, the graduation ceremony for nurses, as it was a school for women only, at the time, constituted a response to society about the importance of work and professional training for women.

Graduation – or completion of the regular stages required in the educational and professional training process – seals the years of studies, delimiting the acquisition of specific knowledge that professionalizes a person with the necessary qualification for the job.1313 Barthes R. Sistema de moda. São Paulo: Martins Fontes; 2009.

There are numerous meanings contained in the act of dressing for a degree. Graduating as a professional comprises more than being a graduate: it involves the importance given to the graduation rite, to special clothing, to the symbolism of the ceremony itself, both for graduates and for parents who followed the trajectory of their children, as well as the fulfillment of the school’s role as an educator and trainer of professionals for the society in which it operates.1111 Portelli A. Un travail de relation: quelques observations sul histoire orale. Clio Revue domande et tessinoise sur les didactiques de histore. Trilhas da História [Internet]. 2017 [citado 2020 mar 28];7(13):182-95. Disponível em: https://periodicos.ufms.br/index.php/RevTH/article/view/5306/4019
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By analyzing the way that professions are consolidated within society, Dubar1111 Portelli A. Un travail de relation: quelques observations sul histoire orale. Clio Revue domande et tessinoise sur les didactiques de histore. Trilhas da História [Internet]. 2017 [citado 2020 mar 28];7(13):182-95. Disponível em: https://periodicos.ufms.br/index.php/RevTH/article/view/5306/4019
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sought to understand this dynamic through the term bureaucratization of careers, as the diploma is seen as the achievement of a certain profession by the graduate, who had to overcome several stages and fulfill certain course requirements, a profession in which the graduate group becomes part.

The diploma, integrating this solemn moment of graduation, in the consolidation of professions in the scope of society, is considered a standardization of careers, the legitimization of training, which the student entered through the university or professional path. Thus, the professional group, upon graduation, is included in a closed organization, concerned with its development, its internal functioning and respect for its professional and ethical codes.1111 Portelli A. Un travail de relation: quelques observations sul histoire orale. Clio Revue domande et tessinoise sur les didactiques de histore. Trilhas da História [Internet]. 2017 [citado 2020 mar 28];7(13):182-95. Disponível em: https://periodicos.ufms.br/index.php/RevTH/article/view/5306/4019
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In this sense, nursing, in view of the natural inclination or vocation of its body of workers, incorporates a set of norms, rules, and scientific knowledge that contribute to the profession’s affirmation process in the social sphere. Modern nursing, when implemented in Brazil in the 1920s, kept the graduation ceremony as a moment to give social visibility to the group of women who dedicated themselves to studies for the good of others, in an act of contributing to the development of the nation1414 Silva GTR, Almeida DB, Oliveira NL, Laitano ADC, Santos VPFA, Queirós PJP. Estudos sobre a imagem das enfermeiras: cinco décadas entre a imagética e suas repercussões. Esc Anna Nery. 2020;24(4):e20200063. http://dx.doi.org/10.1590/2177-9465-ean-2020-0063.
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, and highlighted the nurse’s white uniform with the cap as the most important symbol of the graduate, attributing more value to it than to the “straw” itself, as the clothing was visible and would accompany her wherever she went.

Graduation is a sign associated with an affective memory for those who have experienced the process of knowledge construction, in search of professionalization. This is remembered as a milestone in the trajectory of human beings and their peers and families, allowing us to revisit that moment. It is in this sense that the actors in the process keep physical objects – photos and clothes –, eternalizing what is significant.1515 Coelho Jr NM, Cunha MYS. Os quadros de formatura do Colégio Coração de Jesus (1922-1929): contribuições para o estudo da História da Educação em Santa Catarina. Cadernos CEOM. 2016;29(44):71-8.

Thus, graduation means, for students who appropriate their diplomas –and those who are in the training process –, the objective of becoming professionals with all the rights that the chosen profession has acquired in society. The traditional rite of “Passagem da Lâmpada” (“Lamp Passing”, in free translation), instituted by the School of Nursing of the National Department of Public Health, was also present in the EEHB ceremonies. The allusion to the lamp is to recall Florence Nightingale, who became known worldwide as the “Lady of the Lamp” when caring for the wounded in the Crimean War.1414 Silva GTR, Almeida DB, Oliveira NL, Laitano ADC, Santos VPFA, Queirós PJP. Estudos sobre a imagem das enfermeiras: cinco décadas entre a imagética e suas repercussões. Esc Anna Nery. 2020;24(4):e20200063. http://dx.doi.org/10.1590/2177-9465-ean-2020-0063.
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To be elected Lady of the Lamp was to reinforce the model of a registered nurse with the desirable attributes at each time, starting from a model student in conduct and knowledge, attested throughout the course by the degrees attained. This graduating student should influence her group in the construction of a professional identity, with the profile desired by the school.

The oath on the graduation ceremony, holding the nursing lamp in her left hand, pointed to the introjection of the ideals of the profession to be reinforced in places where the nurse was present. The act of swearing in meant entering a moral community, to which it was necessary to make a commitment for belonging to a certain corporation, holder of regulated rights and duties in an ethical-legal perspective, knowledge and nursing techniques to be assimilated during the training course for the strengthening of the professional category.1111 Portelli A. Un travail de relation: quelques observations sul histoire orale. Clio Revue domande et tessinoise sur les didactiques de histore. Trilhas da História [Internet]. 2017 [citado 2020 mar 28];7(13):182-95. Disponível em: https://periodicos.ufms.br/index.php/RevTH/article/view/5306/4019
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,1616 Aperibense PGGS, Silva CG, Santos TCF, Almeida Fo AJ, Nelson S, Peres MAA. The uniform of nursing students: a strategy for the construction of professional identity (1950-1960). Texto Contexto Enferm. 2019;28:e20170593. http://dx.doi.org/10.1590/1980-265x-tce-2017-0593.
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The white linen dress, highlighted by the collaborating students in this research, also marked the solemn, majestic moment, the peak they were experiencing, showing the professional position they would assume right after graduation. In this sense, linen fabric – used since Greco-Roman antiquity, for the robes of monks and priests1616 Aperibense PGGS, Silva CG, Santos TCF, Almeida Fo AJ, Nelson S, Peres MAA. The uniform of nursing students: a strategy for the construction of professional identity (1950-1960). Texto Contexto Enferm. 2019;28:e20170593. http://dx.doi.org/10.1590/1980-265x-tce-2017-0593.
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, as well as for making finer clothes – takes on symbolic value, representing the act of celebrating an important achievement in the life of the students, that is, the graduation.1717 Coelho Jr NM. Laços e enlaces: sociabilidades, personagens e distinções nos quadros de formatura. Anais do II Seminário Internacional História do Tempo Presente; 2014 out. 13-15; Florianópolis. Florianópolis: Programa de Pós-Graduação em História da Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (UDESC); 2014.,1818 Dubar C. A crise das identidades: a interpretação de uma mutação. São Paulo: Edusp; 2009.

By highlighting the use of the cape on the graduation ceremony, one can see the degree of importance given to the piece by the collaborators, and the symbolic value that this outfit conferred on nurses in the act of graduation, when they began to live up to the authority of professionals. The cape, as a component of the graduation attire, impressed even the school employees for the imposingness that the attire reflected.

Thus, professional image and identity were worked on in the training of nurses at the EEHB, with a view to awakening, in society, respect, admiration and trust in these professionals who would provide health care to the population of the city of Juiz de Fora.

The construction of identity is also based on situations that mark the life of human beings, ideologies and behaviors observed and shared in the context of relationships developed in society. It can occur within the family, in religious centers, in schools, but also in times of adversity, such as, in the particular case, in the health institution. Encounters and situations become divisors, milestones that mobilize people to seek new coping perspectives. Such situations end up becoming great motivators to exercise some tasks, activities or professions.1111 Portelli A. Un travail de relation: quelques observations sul histoire orale. Clio Revue domande et tessinoise sur les didactiques de histore. Trilhas da História [Internet]. 2017 [citado 2020 mar 28];7(13):182-95. Disponível em: https://periodicos.ufms.br/index.php/RevTH/article/view/5306/4019
https://periodicos.ufms.br/index.php/Rev...
,1919 Laver J. A roupa e a moda: uma história concisa. São Paulo: Cia das Letras; 1990.

The construction of identity takes place in the face of difference, that is, in counterpoint with other existing identities. In order for an identity to stand out, it needs to be compared to another, different from what is put. In this sense, the marking of differences, present in the language of nurses' uniforms, through symbols such as the cap, the brooch, among others, contributes to the professional identity. Any identity depends on the difference.1111 Portelli A. Un travail de relation: quelques observations sul histoire orale. Clio Revue domande et tessinoise sur les didactiques de histore. Trilhas da História [Internet]. 2017 [citado 2020 mar 28];7(13):182-95. Disponível em: https://periodicos.ufms.br/index.php/RevTH/article/view/5306/4019
https://periodicos.ufms.br/index.php/Rev...
,1919 Laver J. A roupa e a moda: uma história concisa. São Paulo: Cia das Letras; 1990.

In this way, the uniforms reflect the culture, being inseparable from the fashion that adapts to regional and temporal customs. The nurses’ uniform in Juiz de Fora, the same one worn on graduation day, fulfilled its role of accentuating the class division in the city of Juiz de Fora’s nursing, strengthening the impulse of each one of us (need for affirmation as a person) and the socializer one (need for affirmation as a member of the group).1111 Portelli A. Un travail de relation: quelques observations sul histoire orale. Clio Revue domande et tessinoise sur les didactiques de histore. Trilhas da História [Internet]. 2017 [citado 2020 mar 28];7(13):182-95. Disponível em: https://periodicos.ufms.br/index.php/RevTH/article/view/5306/4019
https://periodicos.ufms.br/index.php/Rev...

Reflecting on the formation of the identity of professionals includes the issue of using uniforms, when clothing is considered an important component of demonstration and affirmation of individuality. Choosing what to wear, including the model, color and accessories, reflects a whole style and a peculiar way of thinking about yourself and the world you live in.2020 Avelar E. O imaginário da formatura: as raízes da cultura bacharelesca e a construção do imaginário da formatura. São Paulo: Iventura; 2012.,2121 Andrade C. A construção da identidade, autoconceito e autonomia em adultos emergentes. 2016; Psic Esc Educ. 20(1):137-46.

In this way, the linen dress and the white cap were pieces highlighted in an outfit that dignified the nurse who wore it. The image constructed – especially by these pieces, and by the posture of these professionals – placed them in the select group of nurses, who in the capital of the republic, years before, in the 1920s, had been presented to Brazilian society as a model and example of a suitable and qualified professional.2222 Santos C. Clothing as symbolic capital: youth identitary process. 2017;(1):5-96. http://dx.doi.org/10.20287/eikon-n01-a07.
http://dx.doi.org/10.20287/eikon-n01-a07...

Other studies highlighted the importance of the uniform used in nursing schools in the first half of the 20th century in Brazil, aiming at the construction of a contemporary professional identity for women who studied in schools that followed the standard model, leading to changes in models, length and other details of the uniform in order to accompany the professional and scientific development of the profession. Phrases such as “be in fashion” or “out of fashion” accompany people’s daily lives, not only in relation to clothing, but also behavior.33 Santos FBO, Carregal FAS, Rodrigues RD, Marques RC. Brazilian nursing history (1950-2004): what has been discussed in the literature?. Rev Enferm Cent-oeste Min. 2018;8:e1876.,77 Lurie A. A linguagem das roupas. Rio de Janeiro: Rocco; 1997.,1414 Silva GTR, Almeida DB, Oliveira NL, Laitano ADC, Santos VPFA, Queirós PJP. Estudos sobre a imagem das enfermeiras: cinco décadas entre a imagética e suas repercussões. Esc Anna Nery. 2020;24(4):e20200063. http://dx.doi.org/10.1590/2177-9465-ean-2020-0063.
http://dx.doi.org/10.1590/2177-9465-ean-...
,2222 Santos C. Clothing as symbolic capital: youth identitary process. 2017;(1):5-96. http://dx.doi.org/10.20287/eikon-n01-a07.
http://dx.doi.org/10.20287/eikon-n01-a07...
-2323 Rajani DTR, Neenu R. Study on preference for clothing among nursing mothers. Int J Home Sci. 2016;2(3):329-31.

The results of this study corroborate the results brought by authors who deal with the theme of uniforms. There is a strong social need to identify professional groups and, in the area of ​​health, a fact built in all countries as nursing professionalized itself. The uniform is not a peculiarity of nursing, but of professional groups, reflecting the respective collective identity by which hierarchies, attributions, competencies, among other professional characteristics are established.66 Almeida RLMD, Rodrigues AAP, Tarma GF, Figueiredo MAGD, Almeida Fo AJ, Santos TCF et al. Clothing and professional identity in the training of nurses in the city of Juiz de Fora. Rev Bras Enferm. 2018;71(suppl 4):1548-55. http://dx.doi.org/10.1590/0034-7167-2017-0522. PMid:30088623.
http://dx.doi.org/10.1590/0034-7167-2017...
-77 Lurie A. A linguagem das roupas. Rio de Janeiro: Rocco; 1997.,2020 Avelar E. O imaginário da formatura: as raízes da cultura bacharelesca e a construção do imaginário da formatura. São Paulo: Iventura; 2012.-2121 Andrade C. A construção da identidade, autoconceito e autonomia em adultos emergentes. 2016; Psic Esc Educ. 20(1):137-46.,2424 Peres MAA, Padilha MICS. Uniform as a sign of a new nursing identity in Brazil (1923-1931). Esc Anna Nery. 2014;18(1):112-21. http://dx.doi.org/10.5935/1414-8145.20140017.
http://dx.doi.org/10.5935/1414-8145.2014...

Fashion carries with it a particular way of intensifying details of clothing, demarcating aspects that incorporate certain concepts, in a certain time and space, sometimes short, but intensely lived. Thus, fashion was presented in uniforms as a language that expressed the development of the nursing profession in society, at the same time it coated the graduates with pride and expectation to start professional practice and show themselves, using that element of identification.1212 Dubar CA. Socialização: construção das identidades sociais e profissionais. São Paulo: Martins Fontes; 2005.

As a substitute for the body, clothing, with its weight, participates in the fundamental dreams of men, of heaven and of the cave; of the sublime life and the burial; of flight and sleep: it is with its weight that clothing becomes a wing or shroud, seduction or authority. Ceremonial attire is heavy: authority is a matter of stillness, of death. The costumes that celebrate the wedding, the birth, the life, are vaporous and light; the weight of the clothing fabric provides a demarcation to the material, associated with the strength and authority that best defines a fabric of which the clothing is composed.1212 Dubar CA. Socialização: construção das identidades sociais e profissionais. São Paulo: Martins Fontes; 2005.

The nurse’s uniform worn at graduation would also be incorporated into their exercise, becoming an identification element for that group formed at the EEHB, differentiating the professionals from the other nursing categories. Professional qualification and hierarchical superiority within the nursing team were dictated in the years studied by the nurse’s uniform, thus functioning as a symbolic element of the profession, with the use of a nurse's cap and white dress standing out within the nursing team.

CONCLUSIONS AND IMPLICATIONS FOR PRACTICE

The study highlighted more than the use of the graduation uniform and its characteristics, recording part of the students' daily life during their professional training and institutional strategies to build a professional and institutional identity.

The uniforms of the EEHB students, as a fragment of a universe called “clothing”, contributed to the identification of a professional category in training. Furthermore, they transmitted both an image and an emblematic language for students, teachers and other professionals in the class, who shared the same historical and social moment in which the school remained in operation, transmitting new concepts of science, technique and an ideal of health care to be provided to the population.

Nursing history studies on uniforms have contributed to the understanding of the symbolic role and non-verbal language attributed to nursing clothing. Used until today, in the 21st century, adapted to care circumstances and fashion influences, according to the historical context experienced, they are reasons for reflection on the part of students and teachers. They discuss what would be their best presentation (model, color, accessories), as well as their use, despite the existence of regulatory norms for healthcare professionals’ clothing, both in services and in educational institutions.

It is said that the uniform worn by the nursing students at the EEHB at graduation was a mark, an essential sign in the movement of construction and consolidation of the nurse’s identity in the city of Juiz de Fora, since it was recognized as an object of identification of registered nurses in the city, being used for 31 years.

This study creates the possibility, for both the present and future generations, of accessing knowledge to the understanding and interpretation of history – in the specific case, of the EEHB – and the importance of uniforms in the contribution of professional training, which is manifested always in a continuous and inexorable movement of changes, in which each human being is a protagonist of his own time and space.

The limitation was characterized by the scarcity of written documents related to the EEHB, which were archived at the former Headquarters of the School (current Regional Health Management of Juiz de Fora) and later transferred to other collections due to the need to renovate the building. Along this path, most documents were lost, limiting the collection of information. It is noteworthy that the aforementioned limitation did not weaken the research results, however it highlights a gap that still needs to be addressed by other researches.

  • a
    Article extracted from the Master’s Thesis in Nursing entitled: The uniform worn by students at Hermantina Beraldo Nursing School (EEHB) and this influence on the construction of the graduated nurse's identity in the city of Juiz de Fora (1947-1978). Author: Regina Lucia Muniz de Almeida. Advisor: Ph.D. Maria Angélica de Almeida Peres. Stricto Sensu Post-Graduate Program at the Escola de Enfermagem Anna Nery. Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro. 2014

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Edited by

ASSOCIATED EDITOR

SCIENTIFIC EDITOR

Publication Dates

  • Publication in this collection
    31 Jan 2022
  • Date of issue
    2022

History

  • Received
    04 Sept 2021
  • Accepted
    06 Dec 2021
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