Nanoemulsion with wine lees: a green approach

SOUZA, ANA LUCIA A.S. DE; GOMES, ANNE KATHERINE C.; MORGADO, CARINA S.; R. JUNIOR, EDUARDO; SIMAS, NAOMI K.; SANTOS, ELISABETE P. DOS; AZEVEDO, ALINE D.; GOMES, ANNE CAROLINE C.; MONTEIRO, MARIANA S.S.B.

doi:10.1590/0001-3765202420230373

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CHEMICAL SCIENCES • An. Acad. Bras. Ciênc. 96 (2) • 2024 • https://doi.org/10.1590/0001-3765202420230373 copy

Nanoemulsion with wine lees: a green approach

Authorship SCIMAGO INSTITUTIONS RANKINGS

Abstract

Bioactive substances can be found in wine lees, a waste from the winemaking industry. This work developed two formulations, a nanoemulsion with coconut oil (NE-OC) and a nanoemulsion with coconut oil and 0.5% of wine lees extract (NE-OC-Ext), to investigate their effect on untreated, bleached, and bleached-colored hair. The oil-in-water (O/W) nanoemulsions were prepared with coconut oil, Tween^TM 80, Span^TM 80, Aristoflex^TM AVC, Conserve NovaMit MF^TM, wine lees extract, and deionized water. The hydration measurements were carried out using a Corneometer® CM 825 with the capacitance method. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) was used to characterize the effect of formulations on hair fibers. Differential Thermal Analysis (DTA) was to assess the thermal stability and compatibility of wine lees and coconut oil in formulations. Compared to NE-OC, NE-OC-Ext showed a greater hydration effect on bleached-colored hair. DTA showed that NE-OC-Ext presented a smaller number of exothermic degradation events than those of NE-OC, suggesting good interaction and compatibility of the wine lees extract in this formulation. This study highlights the value of wine lees, a residue from the winemaking process, and its possibility of use as raw material for the cosmetic hair industry since it shows a greater moisturizing potential in colored hair.

Key words
Hair; nanoemulsion; quercetin; wine

Samples	% of Tween^TM80	% Span^TM 80	% of Coconut oil	% of Water	HLB
1	0%	100%	7.5%	77.5%	4.3
2	10%	90%	7.5%	77.5%	5.4
3	15 %	85%	7.5%	77.5%	5.9
4	25 %	75%	7.5%	77.5%	7.0
5	35 %	65%	7.5%	77.5%	8.1
6	45%	55%	7.5%	77.5%	9.1
7	55 %	45 %	7.5%	77.5%	10.2
8	65 %	35 %	7.5%	77.5%	11.3
9	75%	25%	7.5%	77.5%	12.3
10	85%	15%	7.5%	77.5%	13.4
11	90%	10%	7.5%	77.5%	13.9
12	100%	0%	7.5%	77.5%	15

Components	NE-OC	NE-OC-Ext
Polysorbate 80 (Tween^TM 80)	0.75 %	0.75 %
Sorbitamonoleate (Span^TM80)	14.25 %	14.25 %
Coconut oil	7.5 %	7.5 %
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer (Aristoflex^TMAVC)	0.5 %	0.5 %
methylisothiazolinone/phenoxyethanol solution (Conserve NovaMit MF^TM)	0.1 %	0.1 %
Wine lees extract	-	0.1 %
Deionized water	76.9 %	76.8 %

Concentration of wine lee extract µg/mL	% of radical scavenging activity
500	97.46 ± 2.78
250	88.52 ± 0.75
200	79.10 ± 0.53
100	49.50 ± 0.57
25	42.72 ± 0.77
5	13.89 ± 2.61

Sample	HLB	Visual Aspect
1	4.3	Phase separation
2	5.4	Homogeneity
3	5.9	Instability phenomenon
4	7.0	Instability phenomenon
5	8.1	Instability phenomenon
6	9.1	Instability phenomenon
7	10.2	Phase separation
8	11.3	Phase separation
9	12.3	Phase separation
10	13.4	Phase separation
11	13.9	Phase separation
12	15	Phase separation

Hair Types	Types of Treatment
Hair Types	A	B	C
Untreated Hair	7.3 ± 0.5 AU	7.2 ± 0.58 AU	7.6 ± 0.58 AU
Bleached Hair	7.3 ± 1.2 AU	7.3 ± 0.58 AU	7.7 ± 0.57 AU
Bleached and colored Hair	7.2 ± 0.58 AU	8.3 ± 1.2 AU	9.6 ± 0.57 AU

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[1] Correspondence to: Mariana Sato de Souza Bustamante Monteiro E-mail: marianasato@pharma.ufrj.br